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Surfing Makes You Hungry

Freddie Green Voicings For Blues In E
 
I had a surfing lesson today. It was my first one ever, and I have to say, this teacher, Isaac, was really good. We started out with our boards on the shore, learning how to get from lying down to standing up. Which sounds really basic, and it is, but it's also really hard, unless you've been doing so many squat thrusts lately that you're cool with doing them in reverse, over and over, on a narrow, unsteady surface. I guess we only worked on that for five or ten minutes, to learn where to put our feet, and then it was time to head into the water. We hadn't talked yet about how to actually catch a wave, and I was pretty curious about that. But in the understatement of the day, Isaac said, "Don't worry, it's much easier for me to just show you once we're out there than to try and explain it here."

Turns out, learning to stand up was the day's lesson. (Well, that and: surfing makes you ravenous. Like, that...
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Uncategorized Jul 26, 2017

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